Chemical exfoliation is much much better than physical exfoliation if done properly (My POV). But let’s not get into that debate today as I am going to share my views on two powerful and effective chemical exfoliants available in the market i.e. PIXI Glow Tonic and Dr Sheth’s Gulab & Glycolic toner.

Glycolic acid is a type of AHA that is derived from sugar cane. It is a water-soluble acid that exfoliates the skin by removing dead skin cells. This increases cell turnover, treats acne and pigmentation and also fights aging.

PIXI Glow Tonic

AHA based toner.

Ingredient in focus ~ Glycolic acid.

Dr. Sheth's Gulab & Glycolic toner

AHA based toner.

Ingredients in focus ~ Glycolic acid & Rose Extracts.

All in all, both toners are equally amazing. In the end, it all depends on your skin needs, preference and budget. As far as I am concerned, I’ll be repurchasing the 100ml variant of both PIXI Glow tonic and Dr. Sheth’s Gulab & Glycolic toner.

Looking for other options for glycolic acid toners? I have also reviewed Tvakh Exfoliating water & Plum Green tea toner.

If you have very sensitive skin then please be cautious while using any of these. Always do a patch test before applying a new product all over your face, irrespective of your skin type.

Concluding my thoughts. I hope you liked the post and if you did, do consider subscribing to my blog. Show some love by liking, sharing and commenting your views/thoughts. Until next time, stay beautiful & keep smiling!

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What is Comedogenic rating?

Comedogenic scale is a 5 point rating system ~

• 0 – less chances of clogging pores (good)
• 1 – slight chances of clogging pores
• 2 to 3 – moderate chances of clogging pores
• 4 to 5 – high chances of clogging pores (bad)

According to this scale, we must stick to ingredients that have comedogenic rating of 0 and 1 to be on the safe side. But what if I told you that this scale is not reliable, is flawed and is not backed by proper testing!

I refer these 2 sites to check the comedogenic ratings, for reference ~

https://www.skincarisma.com/

https://cosdna.com/

How are the Comedogenic ratings assigned?

If there is a rating scale means some testing must have been conducted. Yes, back in 1970-80 and again around 2007. Tests were done by applying the ingredients on the inner side of ear lobes of rabbits and studying them for weeks and looking for clogged pores. Later on, similar studies were also done on the back of humans.

So basically, we are using a scale that has never been scientifically tested on human facial skin!

But how are the ratings flawed?

A rabbit’s ear is way more sensitive and has enlarged pores as compared to human facial skin. Hence many ingredients might have entered in the false positive zone. Meaning they might not be as comedogenic for humans as they appeared on the rabbit’s ears.

Also, a person’s back skin is different than facial skin in many factors. There are more pores on facial skin. Also the latter is subjected more to air and pollution. So definitely the results will vary and hence the rating cannot be held accurate for facial skin.

So should we discard the comedogenic rating altogether?

No! One can always take these ratings as a reference instead of completely relying on them. Also, the ratings are for individual ingredient at their 100% concentration. The ratings change when concentrations change. For eg. Isopropyl myristate is rated 4-5 (highly comedogenic) at 100% concentration but its comedogenic rating reduces to 0-1 at lower concentrations at 5-10%. This is the case for all ingredients.

Many brands market their products as ‘non-comedogenic‘ which is nothing but a marketing strategy. The term ‘non comedogenic‘ isn’t even approved by FDA. There is really no standard like this.

Let me explain to you with a very simple example ~

We all know chilli powder, it is a spice which is used in wide variety of dishes. One can’t simply gulp pure chilli powder because 1) it is not feasible as it is very spicy and 2) it is definitely going to disrupt the digestion system and cause some side-effects. But when chilli powder is added to a dish in appropriate quantity then the dish tastes amazing!

Consider chilli powder here as an ingredient with comedogenic rating of 5 which will cause problems when used on its own but is pretty harmless at lower concentrations.

My verdict on Comedogenic ratings:

There was a time when I was so obsessed with using non-comedogenic ingredients that I used to mix few drops of argan oil with with aloevera gel and apply it as a moisturizer (because every moisturizer had one or the other ingredient that rated above 2 on the comedogenic rating scale). I don’t want the same to happen with anyone else, hence this post. Every skin is different and has different needs. Certain ingredients might trigger acne in one person while not in another, despite both having same skin types. There are a lot many factors apart from just ingredients that trigger clogged pores.

So, the possibilities are ~

• a product with all non-comedogenic ingredients might break you out
• a product with ingredients rating 1-2 can also break you out
• a product with ingredient of high rating (say 5) might not break you out

What to do then?

• Always do a patch test before using a new product.
• Try avoiding products that have high comedogenic ingredients right in the first place. There are chances that they might break you out.
• Do study the ingredient list of your products and try finding out which ingredient breaks you out. (If there are 2-3 products that are causing acne, try to find out the common ingredients, to begin with. Slowly, you’ll get some idea).

In the end, it all lies in the formulation. Certain combination of ingredients can clog your pores even when all of them have rating below 2 and also vice versa. Consider my above example of chilli powder. Some people can tolerate (and enjoy) more chilli powder in their food while others can only tolerate less chilly food. This is exactly how our skin is! Don’t forget to check out the reference links  mentioned below to gain more knowledge about the topic.

Always remember, its the concentration and formulation that matters!

Concluding my thoughts. I hope you liked the post and if you did, do consider subscribing to my blog. Show some love by liking, sharing and commenting your views/thoughts. Until next time, stay beautiful & keep smiling!

You can also find Makeup & Smiles at~

Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | Bloglovin’ | YouTube

Let’s connect! Leave your blog link along with comments and I’ll visit for sure.

References:

https://averraglow.com/blogs/news/the-ugly-truth-about-the-comedogenic-scale-and-why-you-shouldnt-trust-it

https://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/things-need-know-comedogenicity-ratings/

https://labmuffin.com/fact-check-how-to-use-comedogenicity-ratings/

The post What are Comedogenic ratings? Are they trustworthy? appeared first on MakeupAndSmiles.

I shall be jotting down steps and give product recommendations side by side. Also, there are some tips hidden. So make sure you stay with me till the end! (alert: irksome acne pics ahead!) Products marked in blue are clickable links to their respective review posts.

1. Makeup removal: Whether you use makeup or not, I highly recommend you use a cleansing balm/oil to melt down all dirt, grime, sebum and deeply cleanse the skin. My fav: Banilla Co. cleansing balm.

2. Facewash: It is extremely essential to use a low pH cleanser (below pH level 6) to keep the acid mantle of the skin unharmed. My favs: Cipla Saslic facewash, Vya naturals Vit C facewash.

3. Toning: Though just an added step, toning helps in removing those pesky little grime particles which otherwise might end up clogging pores. I suggest you use an AHA based toner in the evening which will provide mild exfoliation as well. My favs: Tvakh exfoliating water, The Ordinary 7% glycolic toning solution.

Hydration is the key to keep your skin soft and supple. And in the process of drying up acne, we end up drying our skin as well. Hence after cleansing, it is time to replenish the skin with as much hydration as possible.

4. Essence: (optional) These are almost water-like, hence can easily be layered up. Also, adding a layer of hydration harmed no one. My fav: Vya Naturals Vitamin C serum.

5. Serum/Emulsion: (optional) I never skip this step. There are times when I’ve skipped a moisturizer but never a serum. These add so much hydration without clogging the pores, when chosen wisely. My fav: It’s Skin clinical solution AC emulsion, It’s Skin PO effector serum, Innisfree Green Tea balancing lotion, The Ordinary niacinamide.

6. Moisturizer: (optional when 4 & 5 are used) The last and final step in a skincare routine. I prefer mild ones for daytime & heavy duty moisturizing ones for night time. These can also be skipped if enough moisturizing emulsions are used.

My favs: (AM) Loreal revitalift Laser X3 day cream, Apieu Madeccassoside gel cream, Pyunkang Yul moisture cream. (PM) Plum green tea renewed clarity night gel (when mixed with oils), Skin&Lab barrierderm intensive cream.

Some tips to dry out the acne/pimples fast:

• Use a clay mask as a spot treatment, only over the affected area. It will dry it out. My fav: ENN AC NAY anti-acne face mask.
• Never use physical scrubs on acne prone skin (you wouldn’t want to rub a wound with a coarse product, right?) Try chemical peels and you’ll never look back to physical scrubs. My fav: Innisfree peeling wine jelly softener, The Ordinary AHA 20% + BHA 2% peeling solution.
• Use Pond’s pimple clearing gel as a leave on spot treatment. It clears pimples by removing the bacteria from pore level.
• Use green tea mist. Currently, I am loving Innisfree green tea mist.
• Always use a sunscreen during the daytime. It looks as if sunscreen is a solution to all skin problems. My fav: Tvakh super AM sunscreen spray, Aroma magic aloe vera sunscreen gel.
• Use Tamanu oil to get rid of the pigmentation left behind, quickly.

Dont’s:

• No physical scrub
• No applying of Colgate over acne
• Don’t apply tea tree oil directly over acne. Too much of it can cause extreme dryness.

Phew! These were the tips & products that helped me get rid of my acne and improve my skin texture. I still break out from time to time but that’s totally manageable and normal. It’s never too late to start taking care of our skin. If you need an individual post on any topic, do let me know! Would love to make one for you.

Until next time, stay beautiful & keep smiling!
You can also find Makeup & Smiles at~

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I hope you liked my review and if you did, do consider subscribing to my blog. Show some love by liking, sharing and commenting your views/thoughts. Let’s connect! Leave your blog link along with comments and I’ll visit it for sure.

Disclaimer: I am only sharing my experience and the products that suit me. The ones which worked for me might not work equally well for you.

The post Skincare routine for acne prone skin | My acne story appeared first on MakeupAndSmiles.

1. Why is sun protection important?

UV radiation can cause more harm than we can actually anticipate. Few effects to name are hyperpigmentation, sunburn, premature aging of the skin, damage to the eyes, suppression of immune system and skin cancer. So, tanning should be our least concern!

2. Types of radiations

There are 3 types of UV rays:

UV-A: (relatively long wavelength) It accounts for approximately 95% of the UV radiation reaching the Earth’s surface. It can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and is responsible for the immediate tanning effect. Furthermore, it also contributes to skin ageing and wrinkling as it can penetrate deep into the skin. It also may enhance the development of skin cancers

UV-B: (medium wavelength) It is very biologically active* but cannot penetrate beyond the superficial skin layers. It is responsible for delayed tanning and burning; in addition to these short-term effects it enhances skin ageing and significantly promotes the development of skin cancer. Good news: Most solar UVB is filtered by the atmosphere. We just have to protect our skin from the radiation that reaches earth’s surface.

UV-C: (Short-wavelength) It is the most damaging type of UV radiation. However, it is completely filtered by the atmosphere and does not reach the earth’s surface. (Sigh of relief)

3. Protection factors:

• SPF (Sun protection Factor): It indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen as compared to how long skin would take to redden without the product. For example, someone using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will take approx. 15-20 times longer to redden than without the sunscreen.
  • SPF 15 sunscreen screens 93% of the sun’s UVB rays
  • SPF 30 protects against 97%
  • SPF 50 screens 98%
• PA: This is a Protection grade for UVA rays. This is a Japanese measurement ranking which is now widely used. It is based on the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) reaction reading at 2-4 hours of sun exposure.
  • PA+ means the sunscreen can provide UVA protection with PPD between 2 and 4. It can provide the protection of medium UV radiation.
  • PA++ means the sunscreen can provide moderate protection against UVA rays with a factor of PPD between 4 and 8. It is ideal for normal skin individual exposed to medium UV radiation.
  • PA+++ is designed for normal skin that exposes to very strong UV radiation. It provides good UVA protection with a factor of PPD of more than 8. It is the highest grade of UVA protection currently available.

4. Types of sunscreens

Now, that we know types of radiation, let’s look for options to protect our skin from these. And here comes the sunscreen. When used with proper ingredients and application, we can eliminate all the harmful effects caused by UV rays.

Sunscreens can be classified into 2 types: Physical & Chemical.

Physical sunscreens (sun-blocks) are particles that reflect sun’s rays away from skin. Both of them offer protection against UVA and UVB rays. (these days physical sunscreens are formulated with a much better improved texture which causes minimal whitecast and the ability to sit well under makeup too).

Pros of physical sunscreens:

• Naturally broad spectrum-protection from both UVA & UVB rays
• Lasts longer when physical activities are not involved
• Non irritating to skin
• Doesn’t heat up the skin, hence suitable for people with heat activated skin
• Mostly doesn’t clog pores as it doesn’t get absorbed into the skin
• Longer shelf life

Cons of physical sunscreens:

• Not water/sweat proof, hence frequent application is required
• Leaves whitish cast on skin
• Formula can be thicker
• Generous amount needs to be applied else Uv rays won’t be blocked entirely

Chemical sunscreens (organic-absorbers) form a thin layer on top of skin and absorb UV rays before they reach the skin. Then they convert UV rays into non-damaging wavelengths of heat and dissipate.

Pros of chemical sunscreens:

• Excellent formula, perfect for daily wear & makeup
• Generous application is not required
• Formula is easier to add additional treatment ingredients, such as peptides and enzymes, which offer other skin benefits

Cons of chemical sunscreens:

• Due to a higher internal skin temperature these can possibly cause an increase in existing brown spots and discoloration
• Need to be applied 15 minutes before sun exposure inorder to get absorbed easily and start functioning
• As these get absorbed into the skin, chances of irritation are more
• Multiple chemicals need to be combined inorder to get broad-spectrum protection, which can irritate the skin more
• Certain formulas can clog pores as well

5. Natural ingredients which have sun protection properties

You can also look for these ingredients in addition to those mentioned above:

Raspberry, Strawberry, Propolis, Shea butter, Walnut, Caffeine, Wheatgerm oil, Sunflower oil & Carrot oil

6. Sunscreen ingredients to stay away from

Though approved by FDA, many chemical ingredients can be potentially harmful in the long run. They tend to get absorbed deep into our body, to an extent that their traces can even be found in a mother’s milk.

Also, avoid the ingredient retinyl palmitate as it contains retinol which is photosensitive. You wouldn’t want to irritate your skin more. Keep retinols strictly for nights!

And needless to mention, avoid parabens. No explaination is needed here.

7. Reapplication

Irrespective of physical or chemical, sunscreens should be reapplied every 90 minutes, if staying outdoors. For weekdays where most of us would be sitting the entire day in AC packed cabins, a reapplication after 3-4 hours should do the job.

8. Few brands that I have tried

I have oily, acne prone and highly sensitive skin. I know this is a deadly combination. Because of this, I have stayed away from sunscreens for a very long time. A big mistake, I know. (read my blog such mistakes here). But now a sunscreen is a crucial step in my skincare.

Going by the texture wise, I had been liking The Lotus matte gel for the longest time but recently ditched it as it contains chemical sunscreen ingredients as well as parabens.

I’ve been liking Blossom Kochar Aroma Magic aloevera sunscreen gel, made up of all natural ingredients, paraben free and has a gel texture. Also, recently trying my hands on Suncross matte finish sunprotect gel. It has Zinc oxide and doesn’t leave a visible white cast on skin. Can’t comment much because I’ve used only twice. Let me know if you want a detailed review on it.

So, this super long post comes to an end here. I had to do an intensive homework to gather all facts, that too from reliable sources If you wish to read more and in depth, I’ve mentioned all of the sources below. Hope, I’ve covered all queries related to sun protection. You can now pick your sunscreen wisely after having a brief knowledge about the ingredients.

If you have any sunscreen recommendation/or a fact which I missed above, do share it in the comments below. Also, it is me who has prepared the diagrams.

Until next time, stay beautiful & keep smiling!

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References: ncbi, who, GE global research, skincancer.org, Reneerouleau blog, dermatalk

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